AWC Blog

Connor’s Pick: Xabregas Mad Men of Riesling Devolution 2015


The only thing mad about this wine is how easy it is to finish a bottle on a warm spring night. This Mount Barker winery clearly took inspiration from ancient wine making methods, as it utilizes both skin maceration and minimal intervention on this particular bottling. Naturally complex in flavor from their practices in the vineyard and their location on the mountain, this Riesling is produced by allowing the grapes to remain on skins for three days without intervention during fermentation. The wine unequivocally sits in the category of orange wines I discussed last week.

While I absolutely adore many natural wines we get a chance to try, the lack of sulfur at bottling and reluctance to intervene during fermentation can sadly lead to volatility in the wines themselves. Thankfully, this wine is as clean as they come! The richness from the wine’s time spent on lees and the grape’s naturally high acidity counterbalance each other perfectly here, but this wine needs food – Szechuan and Mexican both come to mind! Drink up and explore what Australia has to offer besides Shiraz and Chardonnay!

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