German wines can be really confusing – mostly because rarely does a familiar word appear on the label. Here, we have a Grauburgunder: *grau* means green and *Burgunder* means a varietal deriving from the Pinot branch ( a nod to Burgundy!). So Grauburgunder means a “green pinot” or Pinot Gris (for most of the world) or Pinot Grigio (to some of the world).
I chose this wine because when I’m in the mood for a white, Pinot Grigio is rarely the varietal I’ll select. I know that it’s an unfair bias but so often it is a grape that gets abused through mass production instead of craft.
Holger Koch is considered a visionary winemaker in Baden, Germany. He practices sustainable methods including natural cultivation, organic fertilization, spontaneous fermentation, and meticulous care of his vineyard.
This wine has a stunning straw hue with slight green reflections- an indication of substantial acid. It has notes of baked apple, quince, and white flowers. There is a clear minerality on the palate; it dances around the mouth like false effervescence. It is extremely well-balanced: sharp acid and very little residual sugar join forces with signature German aromatic perfume. It has a softness that suggests some time spent in wood, as the producer transferred the wine from stainless steel tanks to large oak vessels for aging.
I highly recommend this wine to anyone who wants a unique and highly-structured take on Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio.